Just like Barbados

ACROSS THE MINCH
Islay McLeod's Hebridean journey
Part I: Berneray

Berneray is a small island in the Sound of Harris in the Western Isles known for its stunning beaches and Machair. Around 125 people live on the island permanently – mainly employed in fishing, crofting, IT/media (since the arrival of Broadband in 2006) and tourism. Once only reached by ferry, the causeway was officially opened in 1999 linking the island to North Uist.

Andy and Christine Carr

Andy and Christine Carr are packing wooden pallets into a small trailer for a bonfire they are having on the beach with friends. Christine is a native of Berneray, while Andy is from Edinburgh. They moved back 18 years ago. Andy tells me that since the causeway was built things have changed: 'You would get to know the tourists more. They used to get the ferry over and stay for a week. Now they come over and keep driving south to the Uists.'
     Christine tells me that life in the community is good: 'There was a dance on last night at the community hall – it finished at about 2.30am. Everyone was there, even small children, and a band were playing.' She is glad to return to the island: 'Love it, it's a beautiful place to be. Have you been to the west sands yet?' I haven't but she assures me that she 'wouldn't want to be on any other beach anywhere. It's like Barbados'.
     Neither is religious and Andy comments that 'it's a bit doom and gloom – the young ones aren't interested'. The new Sunday ferry service in Lewis doesn't seem to bother them: 'People just drive down to Lochboisdale to catch the ferry there'. Christine tells me: 'I think they are more religious in Lewis, but people should be given a choice.'

Bob Steedman

Bob Steedman works in the Ardmaree stores – the only shop on the island. I comment on a flyer stuck on the wall about a cross-country race on the island. 'Yes, I was going to take part but had something else on.' I tell him I was tempted myself but it's too hot. 'Well there's always a big cloud and rain on the weather map on television – but to be honest, it's never really that bad here.'

Kath and Brian Griffiths

Kath and Brian Griffiths are helping out at the Berneray Historical Society, not far from the harbour. Brian describes himself as a 'micro generation consultant' and Kath is studying renewable energy remotely from Lews Castle College. Brian tells me: ‘We only moved here 10 years ago, not real locals – just a boring middle-class couple interested in renewable energy. The community of the village is still close. In times of bereavement and crisis it's amazing how people pull together. A local woman lost her husband recently and the village rallied around her since.' The couple are self-proclaimed eco-warriors. 'You must have passed our house, it's the one with the wind turbine in the garden,' says Kath.
     They speak highly of the founder of the Berneray Development Group – John Angus Maccuish. Brian tells me that the group has 'helped make the island look great for tourists'. From information notices like the one at seal point to ensuring that there are clean toilet and shower facilities.

Part II on Thursday: the Vatersay ceilidh

All photographs Copyright Institute of Contemporary Scotland, 2009